General Sizing Principles
General Sizing Principles
Sizing is the process of adding, removing, re-positioning or adjusting bracelet components for the purpose of fitting the bracelet to an individual wrist. Ideally, the sizing process should have negligible effect on the condition of the timepiece bracelet. In this section, we will discuss the most commonly used sizing systems, those being the cotter pin system, the pin/tube system, the screw system, the springbar system and the mobile lug system. We will also learn about sizing tools and their proper use. Mastery of this process is usually achieved through significant practice. Do not get discouraged if obstacles present themselves throughout the process. Please begin by selecting a topic from the drop-down menu. But before you begin, please consider a few paramount rules to effective sizing.
1. Make sure you give yourself enough time. You should give yourself fifteen minutes to size a timepiece of average difficulty.
2. Use the proper tool. For example, it is important to use the correct screwdriver size when removing links. Using the incorrect size will likely result in the unnecessary damage of your tool and the timepiece.
3. Use brass tweezers to handle pins, tubes, screws, etc. Brass tweezers are relatively soft and are less likely to mar or scratch bracelet components.
4. Follow the procedures listed to the best of your ability. Taking shortcuts may lead to unnecessary damage to very precious and expensive timepieces.
Required tools can be ordered/restocked in two ways. You can forward an order to Art and he will place the order for you. You can also call the supplier directly at 1-800-776-6858 (Jules Borel).
Required Tools
1. 2 fully functional standard screwdriver sets.
2. A minimum of six replacement blades for each size present in the screwdriver set.
3. Sizing tool (pins) for pin/tube and cotter sizing).
4. A minimum of 6 sizing short-pins
5. A minimum of 6 sizing long-pins
6, A minimum of 3 rolls of Permacel tape.
7. 1 bottle of Loctite.
8. 1 heavy pliers.
9. 2 brass tweezers.
10. 1 standing screwdriver (for mobile lugs)
11. 1 plastic or wood block.
12. Soft round leather pad.
13. Alcohol burner (can be refilled in the Jewelry Shop)
14. Lighter to light alcohol burner.
15. 10 pieces of double shoulder springbars in the following sizes; 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 20mm, 21mm.
16. Soft Selvyt cloth.
17. Magnification goggles.
18. Sizing knife (for straps)
19. Springbar removing tool (optional)
Screw System
A threaded screw which holds the links together. Generally Loctite (glue) is applied to the threading to prevent the screw from coming loose. This glue sometimes makes it quite difficult to remove the screw. This is why we always recommend heating up the link (using the alcohol lamp) prior to attempting removal. This loosens up the glue and allows for smoother removal of the screw
1. Heat up links which are to be removed (do not heat screws that are closely placed to leather/rubber straps).
2. Apply Permacel tape to the links which you intend to remove (Permacel tape can withstand high temperatures without breaking apart and leaving residue).
3. Choose the correct size screwdriver to fit into the head of the screw.
4. Place the bracelet on a flat surface. If using a square block the timepiece head will hang over the edge.
5. Remove screw by holding the screwdriver at a 90 degree angle and putting moderate pressure on the head of the screwdriver with your index finger, rotate the screwdriver body with your thumb and third finger. This is the appropriate way to use this type of screwdriver.
6. You will need to remove the Permacel tape in order to remove the separated links.
7. Place a small amount of loctite on each screw (threading) that you intend on using to reconnect the bracelet.
8. To re-connect, place screw between the two applicable links.
9. Apply Permacel tape to the top of the links you will be reconnecting. It is not necessary to place tape on the bottom of the links, but only on the surface your screwdriver will come into contact with.
10. Lay bracelet on a flat surface, if using a square block the timepiece head will hang over the edge.
11. Tighten screws using the proper methods described in step 5.
12. Remove Permacel tape and wipe off any excess residue and fingerprints.
In Review...
-Removal can be very difficult
-Use of proper tools is essential
-During removal, links should be heated
-During assembly, loctite must be applied to screw threading
-Screw heads may become stripped and may require drilling
Cotter Pin System
A split pin with a domed top. As this pin is pushed into the link, the top of the link is forced in and provides the needed pressure/tension to hold the links together. Please consider directionality while removing and placing back these pins. Always push out the pin on the non-domed side. When placing the pin back always hammer the domed split side. Generally, arrows are provided on the bracelet to assist you with direction.
1. Please apply Permacel tape to the proper link(s) (This is the link which will come in contact with the sizing-pin. This is done to protect the bracelet from inadvertent damage caused by the slipping of the sizing-pin. Be advised that the non-domed side must be pushed in order to remove the applicable link. The non-domed side can generally be distinguished from the domed-side as the latter has a visible slit).
2. Carefully place the bracelet in the sizing tool and make sure that sizing-pin and cotter pin are properly aligned. Slowly advance the sizing-pin as to push out the cotter pin. This process does not require much force (If you find that a lot of force is needed to perform these tasks, please check that you are pushing the non-domed side of the cotter pin and/or the sizing-pin and cotter pin are properly aligned).
3. You will need to remove the Permacel tape in order to separate the links from each other once cotter pin(s) are removed.
4. To re-connect bracelet you must insert a cotter pin into the applicable link.
5. Please check for arrows on the underside of bracelet for directionality.
6. Please place Permacel tape on both the top and bottom of the link(s) that are to be reconnected.
7. Position the bracelet to where it lays flat. If you are using a square block, the timepiece head will hang over the edge.
8. Lightly hammer the domed-side of the cotter pin into the link. Use the soft side of the hammer as to not dent the link. The dome on the cotter pin will provide the pressure needed to hold the links together.
9. Remove Permacel tape from the bracelet. Wipe off any excess tape residue and fingerprints from the bracelet.
In Review...
-Removal easy, requires little pressure
-Remove by pushing or hammering on non-domed side
-Re-assemble by pushing or hammering on domed or slit side
-Cotter pins break relatively easy during removal
Pin and Tube System
A two piece system where a cylindrical tube is placed into the hole of the link. A pin is then inserted which in turn spreads out the tube and holds the links together. It does not matter which direction this pin and tube are removed or inserted.
1. Cover the side that will come into contact with the sizing-pin with Permacel tape.
2. Place the short sizing-pin in the tool (your toolkit is supplied with 2 lengths of sizing pins).
3. Place the bracelet in the sizing tool (make sure that the sizing-pin is properly aligned with the pin/tube).
4. Slowly advance the sizing-pin (it will partially push out the pin/tube).
5. Remove the bracelet from the sizing tool.
6. Place the long sizing-pin in the tool.
7. Place the bracelet in the sizing tool.
8. Slowly advance the sizing-pin to fully push put out the applicable pin/tube.
9. You will need to remove the Permacel tape in order to separate the applicable links.
10. To re-connect, insert cylindrical tube into the hole of the link.
11. Place applicable links together.
12. Insert pin into applicable link.
13. Place Permacel tape onto applicable links on both the bottom and top of the bracelet.
14. Lay bracelet on flat surface, if using a square block the timepiece head will hang over the edge.
15. Hammer down applicable pin(s). Please pay close to attention to the alignment of the pin in relation to the link it is being inserted into.
You can attempt to skip steps 2-5, but the long sizing tool may snap during the process (due to the large amount of tension inherent in the pin/tube system.
In Review...
-Removal can be difficult, requiring significant pressure
-Remove by pushing or hammering on either side of pin
-Re-assemble by pushing or hammering on either side of pin
-Pins bend relatively easily during installation
-Tubes wear and occasionally require replacement
Spring Bars
Under Development
Mobile Lug System
A cylindrical bar with a short screw on each side. You must use a standing screwdriver with this system. Furthermore, you must place Permacel tape on both ends of the applicable link. This will be demonstrated during physical training.
This section is under further development. Please check back soon for detailed instructions.
In Review...
-Removal can be very difficult
-Use of proper tools is essential
-During removal, links should be heated
-During assembly, loctite must be applied to screw threading
-Screw heads may become stripped and may require drilling